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Fat or No Fat, Ghee Matters

Ganapathy’s Butter and Ghee, is a Mylapore landmark that opened in 1942.

Many Chennai traditionalists buy their butter and ghee only from here, something most of them have been doing for the last three generations. As the enthusiastic shop boy takes the lid off a comfortingly dented tin to scoop out a creamy pat of white buffalo butter for a customer, G. Sankaran, the owner of the store explains why they stubbornly resist change.

“The butter has been coming from Uthukuli, in Erode district, ever since my father, Ganapathy Pillai, started this business,” he says, adding that they even use the same supplier his father did. Sankaran’s son S. Saravanan adds that the dairy merchant too has been doing the same business since his grandfather’s time, so the flavour doesn’t change.”

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