Know about Patola Sarees
The patola saree is one of the finest hand-woven sarees produced today. These sarees are created by using the resist dying techniques. There are two types of Patola sarees: Rajkot Patola, Patan Patola. Rajkot Patola is only vertically resist dyed (single ikat). Patan Patola is horizontally-resist dyed (double ikat).
Read on to know about Ikkat and beautiful priceless Patola sarees..
The unique art of Ikkat or tie and dye yarn weaving is an ancient tradition of Orissa.Brilliant colour schemes and geometric or floral designs in Ikkat are popularly used by textile designers for furnishing fabrics, dress materials and elegant cotton and silk sarees. The processes of tie and dye design require the fixing of the designs and patterns before the warp and weft are coloured.The threads forming the design are tied and dyed repeatedly to bring in the right colour at the right place and the interlacement of the threads produces the design on the fabric. The dyeing over the warp and weft are spread out for weaving on a loom. As patterns and designs emerge they impart elegance and beauty to the woven fabric. Tie and dye techniques may be applied on the warp threads(warp Ikkat) or the weft threads(weft Ikkat) either of which is called single Ikkat or they may be applied on warp and weft threads in such a way that the two designs overlap each other called double Ikat. In single as well as double Ikkat, warp and weft threads which are tied and dyed as per design should not only be positioned accurately in proper sequence in weaving as required by the design and its colour scheme but also should be accurately secured to prevent shifting, displacing or entangling. With this highly sophisticated Ikkat technique complicated motifs appear exactly the same on either side of the fabric.
Know about Patola
The ancient art of patola weaving (double Ikkat), dating back to the 4th century A.D. originated in Patan, North Gujarat. Epics like the Ramayan and Narsinha Puran refer to the use of Patola in marriage ceremonies as an auspicious garment. This traditional art received great patronage during the Chalukya period. Till today the special technique of the handmade silk Patola uses the same special technique for weaving from raw silk to the completion of the Patola fabric. The weaver makes the special Patola loom and colouring from indigenous natural materials. The main patola designs are pan bhat – leaf design, ratan chok bhat – jewel square, popat kunjar bhat – parrot and elephant design, nari kunjar bhat – woman and elephant design, chhabadi bhat – basket design and vohra gali bhat – pattern preferred by Vohra Muslims. The designs, which may comprise floral or animal motifs, are first drawn on paper to achieve accuracy and accordingly warp and weft are tied into knots and then dyed into different colours. The weaving needs care in uniting a particular colour in the weft with that in the warp. Only 5 to 6 inches a day can be woven to achieve a smooth and identical finish on both sides of the fabric. The magnificent coloured highly prized Patola saree takes nearly one to one & half years to complete and is preserved as an heirloom.
Patola sarees are known for their flaming bright colors and geometric designs interwoven with folk motifs. Every patola saree is one of its kind as it is created entirely with the imagination and skill of the weaver. Each saree consists of a series of warp threads and a single weft thread, which binds the warp threads together. Each one of the warp threads is tied and dyed according to the pattern of the saree. The result is that both sides of the saree look exactly alike as if it is woven on both sides with the same design, and can be worn either way. Flowers, animals, birds and human figures form the the basic design