Know about Arani Handloom and Silk Fabric
Arani is located in the district of Thiruvannamalai in the state of Tamilnadu. Arani is one of the most important Silk centers of Tamil Nadu. The town is situated at a distance of 132 kms (about 82 Miles) to the West of Chennai. Arani the city of silk fabrics is accessible from Vellore also. Read on to know about Arani silk sarees and handloom.
People of Arani produce silk sarees and handloom fabrics of good quality. Weaving is done by ladies and gents. Arani is well known for its traditional Arani Handlooms silk fabrics. Arani handlooms are well known for the durability of the colours used in the yarn. The mixture of colour gives the durability.
First the yarn is washed and then dipped in the required colour which is in a boiler and the worker goes on turning the yarn so that the colour is evenly mixed in the yarn. The most important aspect in this process is the mixing of colours which will give unique and durable colour to the fabric. Then it is again washed and dried. These yarns are then starched. Starching of the yarn is where the colour in the yarn will get more permanent nature and gives the yarn a polished look. The starched yarn is brought from the merchants by master weavers and is distributed to weavers. (Master weavers are also weavers, but they will be having a group of weavers under them). Then it is turned in a charka. The turning in charka is where the yarn will become thread, which is used for wept.
Charka is a spinning wheel. The charkha works similarly to the great wheel, with a drive wheel being turned by hand, while the yarn is spun off the tip of the spindle. The floor charkha and the great wheel closely resemble each other. With both, the spinning must stop in order to wind the yarn onto the spindle.
The loading of yarn in warp is the next process. Then yarn is loaded into the looms. The length of yarn which is loaded as warp is known as Pavvu. A weaver can make four sarees from one pavvu. It will take a week to weave one pavvu of four sarees.
The count used in weaving gives the softness and hardness of the fabric. The count in a handloom fabric means the number of threads woven length wise and breadth wise known as warp and wept respectively in a square inch. The count in the saree is 2400 which gives strength to the fabric and durability. That means that there will be 2400 threads in warp and wept.
Weaving: – The looms used in Arani are mostly Frame looms. Frame looms are looms which are fixed in a frame and looms peddle will be at the floor level and the weaver will sit on stool and use his hands and legs to weave.
To create designs in the sarees, first the design is been made in a computer and then that design is punched into thick cards and then this card is loaded into the Jacard in the loom, so that according to the designs and the holes in the card, the needles will pull and put the threads which will create designs in the saree while weaving. Jacard is a box like structure at the top of the loom which contains needles which will read the punch card of designs.
The weavers are into this profession traditionally. None of the weavers are trained but they have acquired this unique skill hereditarily from their ancestors. The art of weaving is passed on by way of vision and practice. There are no theoretical explanations or training for weaving. But unfortunately due to the low wages the traditional weavers are opting out of this industry. New generation is not interested in this profession due to the low wages prevailing in the industry.
The handlooms in Arani are famous for the softness and durability. The handloom fabrics are soft and comfortable to wear and is suitable for all climates. Mainly Arani looms manufacture silk sarees, but now as per demand dress materials are also weaved.
The specialty of Arani sarees are a saree is made with two different bodies on each side and two different pallus which can be used as two different sarees. Sarees are designed so shrewdly that in one side of the body half will be in one colour and the other half with another colour and at the two ends different pallus and in the other side the entire body will be of one colour with one pallu. This saree can be used as three sarees. Another complicated design is that in one side of the saree there will two different colour in half portion each and at the two end two pallus, like that in the other side also two different colour in each half and two different pallus, so that this saree can be used as four different sarees. Arani is also known for its special designs in the pallus.
Arani Sarees and fabric are available in most of the textile shops in Chennai.
Arani can be reached by bus or car from Chennai. Lot of buses ply to Arani from Chennai.